What a blessing to see the Sherbans again. I previously made valances for them several years back. See those here. This time, it was armchair covers for their new chairs that just didn’t come with any arm covers. They were able to get more fabric from the store they bought the chairs from, and popped in to see me.
It was a simple two piece project with roughly a 6″ square front, with rounded corner at the top, and an over the arm piece. They brought the overall measurements for over the arm, as well as the depth, and a cardboard template of the front of the arm.
It was a simple project, but a blessing to see the Sherbans again. 🙂
Yes, you read right – elevator & rudder curtains. Not the kind that get put in elevator walls to prevent damage when furniture, etc. is being moved in and out of buildings, but “elevator curtains” that are fitted in the elevator and rudder areas of aircraft, specifically for Convair aircraft.
These jobs require me making a pattern from sometimes very old, very ripped samples that had previously been in airplanes, then making new ones – usually ten at a time -requiring 12 hours a piece.
Just wanting to showcase some of the more “interesting” work I’ve done. This is not likely something the average customer would require, but the client, Kelowna Flightcraft, is not the average customer. 🙂
Wait! Don’t run away! I’m serious! Yes, you can CONQUER the dreaded jean hem! No more broken needles and endless frustration! Read on!
A little over -dramatic? Not for those who have been left in tears, or just about, after having broken needle after needle trying to hem jeans. Needles are NOT cheap! For many people, few repairs in the sewing room inspire as much dread as dealing with jeans, especially hems and zippers. In this tutorial, I’m going to show the trick to getting over the “hump” in the hem, without breaking needles, or losing your sanity. 🙂
First, if you understand why the issues are happening, you can avoid them. It’s simple. The needles are breaking because the presser foot doesn’t stay level when going over the thicker side seam. Keep the foot level, and you won’t be breaking needles.
No, you do not need a heavy industrial sewing machine to accomplish this… Continue reading
One of the most common repairs in clothing is rips and tears, especially in pant seats. This one was a little different, as it was to the front of a leg on some coveralls, but the procedure is the same.
Achieving a patch that hides well can take a bit of practice, but these instructions should help you achieve it much more quickly, especially if you follow the lines of threads in the garment.
Choosing Patching fabric:
I keep a bin of cut offs from hemming jobs and choose the closest in color or color tone, stretch, etc. The right color or tone insures the best blending to the eye of old and new fabric. The beige fabric in the above repair was chosen on purpose for visibility.
Choosing the Right Thread:
To ensure the best blending, choose a color similar to the garment and one shade darker.
Securing the Patch:
Using a water soluble glue (same solid stick used in kid’s crafts), glue the patch to the back side of the garment. Whether the patch is first secured with straight stitching or zig-zag is determined by the type of fabric. For fabric with little or no stretch, use a straight stitch, but for jeans, knits – anything with stretch – use a zig zag stitch, otherwise the repair will either tear or stitches will break when the clothing is put to use. Stitch around the tear about a 1/2 inch away, then another line of stitching close to the tear.
Once the patch has been secured, examine the direction of the threads in the garment and follow those lines as as you straight stitch forwards and backwards. How much you fill in determined by the garment’s fabric and the look you want to achieve. Some blend in easily, while others require more effort. A fabric that has variations in color, like many denims, will fill in easier than a solid tone. You can also purchase threads that have different tones of the same color within the spool (variegated) which help tremendously in blending.
The picture immediately above shows the repair in various stages of filling in. The left area is almost completely filled in, while the right area showing the tan backing fabric has simply been stitched around. The latter would be the typical minimal repair, while a full fill in (left) is more expensive, but can be done is such a way to make the repair almost unnoticeable.
I say to fill in the area – if warranted – as each client’s needs are different, and so is the piece of clothing. These coveralls didn’t warrant the extra labour involved in filling in the repair, as the customer wanted it fixed as inexpensively as possible. However, I chose to do a more elaborate repair, and only charge the client for a basic repair, in order to have some pictures for this tutorial.
The repair on these jeans is a bit different as the client simply wants the hole filled in while showing a contrasting backing fabric, and keeping the frayed edges of the holes. The procedure was very simple: glue garment to patch and zig-zag around.
Please let me know if anything is unclear, or if there are other tutorials you’d like to see. I’d also love to hear your sewing stories, how my tutorials help, or any other comments you have to offer.
The padding on this stool was minimal, so I added 2″ of high density foam, along with a bit of extra 1″ foam along the metal edge to smooth the overall look, then covered it with leather from a re-purposed leather jacket.
Although somewhat tedious, this project was fun. Not only that, but Mary and Arnie are wonderful people to deal with. They told me I don’t charge enough, gave me a tip, and even e-mailed me these pics of the installed valance. What a blessing! Thanks so much! 🙂